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Hotel Review: Kinsterna

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Kinsterna

Agios Stefanos, Monemvasia, Greece

www.kinsternahotel.gr

Some might be put off (needlessly - there are plenty of ways to entertain yourself on the way) by the 4-hour drive from Athens to Kinsterna, but those who put in the effort are mightily rewarded.

Like all of Greece, the history of the southern Peloponnese is a layer cake of influences including ancient Mycenae, the Byzantine Empire, the Ottoman Empire, and the Venetians.  As with most of the places we visited, control of the region flip-flopped back and forth between factions, creating a unique culinary and cultural legacy.

The property itself is comprised of some structures from the most recent manor house in that location (most notably, the large cistern that gives the hotel its name) as well as new construction that utilizes local materials like cypress, slate, and marble.  At check-in, you’ll be offered a tour of the property - definitely take them up on this - we waited until our third day to do so and I could have saved myself the embarrassment of barging into the GM’s office while somehow under the impression that it was the spa (he was super nice about it, but obviously I was mortified).

Kinsterna’s owners believe strongly in sustainability and ensuring the hotel and the surrounding community are in harmony.  90% of the staff are locally hired, and the grounds provide a substantial amount of the produce consumed onsite.  Guests are encouraged to explore the local area - hiking and biking trails are clearly marked and immersive cultural experiences like participating in the wine or olive harvest are available to guests, along with more traditional activities like wine tasting, bread baking, or horseback riding.

We spent four nights at the property and I could have happily stayed there for weeks…our room was incredibly comfortable, the food was healthy and delicious, and the pool was unbelievable. I’d love our next visit to be in winter - I can picture myself happily ensconced next to the winter bar’s fireplace, reading a book and drinking a hot toddy spiked with mastiha.

AESTHETICS: 9/10

Beautiful custom furnishings; emphasis on locally-sourced artisan products.

COMFORT: 9/10

Super-comfortable bed, almost total black-out, perfect cool temperature for sleeping without air conditioning, lovely light signature scent.

FOOD: 8/10

Great - two main restaurants, Sterna and Mouries, and several seasonal options - the outstanding pool bar, a gorgeous indoor bar open only during the winter months, and an open-air taverna available several nights each week during the summer. Food was delicious, although I could have done with a bit more variety in the offerings as we were there four nights and didn’t really leave the property for meals. Outstanding breakfast selection, complete with honey from Kinsterna’s apiary.

BAR: 6/10

Such a bummer that the beautiful indoor bar isn’t open year-round; the bartenders at the pool bar were terrific but we wanted a place to chill with a drink that didn’t involve the pool, and that was hard to find.

SPA: 9/10

Terrific spa with a broad selection of offerings, including treatments that incorporate olive oil, honey, grapes, and pomegranates from the Kinsterna estate.

SERVICE: 10/10

Outstanding in every regard

PRICE POINT:

$$$

WORTH GOING OUT OF YOUR WAY FOR:

The very definition of “worth going out of your way for.” If you don’t fancy making the drive yourself, a private transfer to/from Athens can be arranged via car, helicopter, or speedboat. You can also fly into Kalamata Airport and be transferred from there.

WHILE YOU’RE IN THE AREA:

A morning trip to the medieval fortress town of Monemvasia is a must-do (go early, before it gets busy); Elafonisos, an island boasting one of Greece’s most beautiful beaches, is about 45 minutes south.

DON’T TAKE OUR WORD FOR IT:

“Stunning 13th-century manor house renovated to fit in perfectly with the landscape…it seems philistine to suggest that the hotel was the highlight of our holiday, but the infinity pool and its views over olive and citrus groves did exert a magnetic pull”,

“Kinsterna is the kind of place people fall in love with, and want to return to”,

“[T]he initial plan was to visit a few hotels around the region, but…I liked the look of the Kinsterna so much I decided to plant myself there for the entire week.”

ANTHOLOGY AMENITIES:

  • upgrade upon arrival, subject to availability

  • a bottle of Kinsterna house wine from the property’s vineyard

  • complimentary bottle of extra virgin olive oil from one of the property’s olive groves

  • 20% discount on spa services